If you’re looking for something more to see in Pisa after visiting the main sights in the Square of Miracles, take a walk along the Arno River. The river, which also runs through Florence, divides Pisa, separating the main tourist area to the north from the neighborhood around the train station to the south. While you won’t find anything as stunning as the Leaning Tower or the Pisa Cathedral, you’ll enjoy lovely views of the earth-toned palazzi on the riverbanks and the mountains in the distance.
Starting Your Walk
Begin your stroll in Garibaldi Square near Ponte di Mezzo. Stop by La Bottega del Gelato to grab a gelato ‘to go’. Then head west along the north bank of the river, on Lungarno Pacinotti.
University of Pisa
A few streets down, you’ll pass the campus of the University of Pisa, founded in the 14th century. Notice the white marble and stone façade of Palazzo alla Giornata, built in the 17th century for Francesco Lanfreducci, a knight of Malta. It now houses the offices of the University Chancellor. Just past the next street is the Palazzo Reale, built in the 16th century for Francesco I de’ Medici, ruler of Pisa. It currently serves as the National Museum of Art and Culture.
Old Citadel and Guelph Tower
Continue along the north bank, following Lungarno Pacinotti/Ranieri Simonelli, until you reach the red brick arched walls of the Medici Arsenal, a medieval shipyard later used as horse stables. Just past this is the Old Citadel, or Cittadella Vecchia, easily recognizable by the red brick Guelph Tower. Situated in the area of Tersana, named for the old shipyards, this former fortification, once part of the medieval city walls, is now part of a public park and a reminder of Pisa’s days as a powerful merchant city.
Crossing the River
From the Citadel, cross over Ponte della Cittadella and head east along Lungarno Sidney Sonnino. Just behind the trees on your right is the oldest church and former cathedral of Pisa, San Paolo a Ripa d’Arno, with the small octagonal Chapel of St. Agatha in the courtyard.
Santa Maria della Spina
Continue on to Ponte Solferino where Lungarno Sidney Sonnino becomes Lungarno Gambacorti. Just past the bridge, you’ll see the charming 13th-century church of Santa Maria della Spina, formerly Santa Maria di Pontenovo. This tiny gothic church, with a fragile-looking frilly marble exterior, was said to hold a relic from the crown of thorns (hence its current name; spina = thorn).
Santa Maria della Spina, open to the public for a minimal fee, houses a few pieces of religious artwork, including several statues by Nino Pisano and his father Andrea (also known for his work on the Baptistery in Florence). The statues here include:
- Madonna of the Rose
- Saint John the Baptist
- Saint Peter
Palazzo BLU and Santa Cristina
At the bend of the river, you’ll come to the appropriately named Palazzo BLU. This 14th-century former residence of Doge Giovanni Dell’Agnello is now home to the Fondazione Pisa and serves as a center for art and culture. Next door to the ‘Blue Palace’ is the Church of Santa Cristina, the current structure of which dates primarily from the 10th-12th centuries.
Piazza Settembre XX
Walking on, you’ll come to Piazza Settembre XX, where Lungarno Gambacorti becomes Lungarno Galileo Galilei. This square, along with Piazza Garibaldi across the river, marks the center of the city. Its name commemorates the ‘fall of Rome’ during the fight to unify Italy in the 19th century. In the square, you’ll find:
- Palazzo Gambacorti: Former residence of a noble merchant family, now the city’s administrative offices.
- Palazzo Pretorio: Served as the civil government, criminal courts, a prison, and more recently the municipal library. The building and its clock tower were damaged during WWII bombing raids and have since been reconstructed.
- Logge dei Banchi: The 17th-century former wool and silk market, commissioned by Ferdinando I de’Medici and designed by Florentine architect Bernardo Buontalenti.
Architectural Details
Staying along the river, continue down Lungarno Galileo Galilei, taking note of the rich earth-tone colors of the buildings and their interesting architectural features, such as:
- Ornate doorways and window frames
- Wrought iron balconies
- Decorative cornices and moldings
- Frescoed facades
Churches and Gardens
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Next stop on your river walk is the 12th-century Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Chiesa di S. Sepolcro), founded by the Knights Hospitaller of St John of Jerusalem and administered by the Knights of Malta. The church houses the tomb of Maria Mancini Colonna, a special friend to King Louis XIV of France.
Giardino Scotto
Follow Lungarno Galileo Galilei, walking past Palazzo Lanfranchi (presently the Museo della Grafica), until you reach Ponte della Fortezza. At this point, the river road becomes Lungarno Leonardo Fibonacci and leads to Giardino Scotto. This public park, with sculpture garden and natural amphitheater, is bordered in part by a segment of the medieval city wall. The area has been the site of:
- 12th-century church
- 13th-century ceramics factory
- 14th-century bronze foundry
- 15th-century fortified citadel (Cittadella Nuova)
- 18th-century palace belonging to Domenico Scotto
Crossing Back
From the park, make your way back to Ponte della Fortezza and cross over to the north bank of the Arno River, turning left onto Lungarno Mediceo.
Museums and Palaces
Along this river walk, you’ll pass:
- Museo Nazionale di San Matteo: Housed in the 11th-century Convent of San Matteo, the museum’s collection – reportedly the largest in Pisa – focuses on works from the Middle Ages.
- Palazzo Medici: 13th-century former residence of the Lords of Pisa, including members of the ruling de’ Medici family.
- Palazzo Toscanelli: 16th-century home to the State Archives, located at #30 Lungarno Mediceo.
Piazza Giuseppe Mazzini
In the square that carries his name, you’ll see a statue of Italian nationalist and revolutionary Giuseppe Mazzini.
Ending Your Walk
Now, make your way back to Garibaldi Square and La Bottega del Gelato, where this walking tour ends. At this point, you’re probably ready for another gelato, anyway.
Ticket Info
- Adult Admission (Santa Maria della Spina) = €1.00
- Adult Admission (Palazzo Blu) = FREE, admission fee may apply for special exhibits
- Adult Admission (Museum-Palazzo Reale) = €5.00
- Adult Admission (Museum of Graphics) = €3.00
- Adult Admission (Museo Nazionale di San Matteo) = €5.00
Additional Information
- The Arno River is the second-largest river in central Italy, after the Tiber.
- Pisa was once a powerful maritime republic, rivaling Genoa and Venice in the 11th and 12th centuries.
- The University of Pisa, founded in 1343, is one of the oldest universities in Italy and has hosted many notable scholars, including Galileo Galilei and Andrea Vesalius.
- The Medici family, famous for their patronage of the arts and sciences, ruled Pisa for much of the 15th and 16th centuries.
- The Leaning Tower of Pisa, located in the Square of Miracles, is actually the bell tower of the Pisa Cathedral. Its famous tilt is due to an unstable foundation.
Tips for Your Walk
- Wear comfortable shoes, as you’ll be walking on cobblestone streets and sidewalks.
- Bring a camera to capture the beautiful views of the river and the historic buildings along its banks.
- Stop for a break at one of the many cafes or gelaterias along the way.
- If you’re interested in visiting any of the museums or churches mentioned, check their opening hours and admission fees beforehand.
- Take your time and enjoy the sights, sounds, and atmosphere of this charming Italian city.
A walk along the Arno River in Pisa is a wonderful way to explore the city beyond its famous Leaning Tower. From historic palaces and churches to charming squares and parks, there’s plenty to see and appreciate along this scenic route. So take a break from the crowds, grab a gelato, and enjoy a leisurely stroll along the river that has been at the heart of Pisa for centuries.