When you think of royal residences in Paris, a few popular ones likely spring to mind. There’s the Louvre, a medieval fortress turned palace that’s now a world-renowned art museum, and of course, there’s Château de Versailles, originally a hunting lodge for King Louis XIII and later the opulent 17th-century palace of Louis XIV, the extravagant ‘Sun King’.
Knowing that these two attractions are immensely popular with travelers and often extremely crowded, consider visiting a lesser-known royal residence, Château de Vincennes. Located east of the Périphérique, the Paris ring road, it’s a 30-minute trip from the city center and about half the time it takes to get to Versailles.
A Unique Royal Residence
Château de Vincennes is quite unique and offers a different perspective on royal living. It’s considered to be “the most extensive French royal castle still in existence in France”, and with its donjon and inner fortifications still intact, it’s reportedly the only existing medieval royal residence in France.
From Hunting Lodge to Fortified City
The château began as a 12th-century hunting lodge in the forest of Vincennes, built for the monarchs of the House of Capet. The original manor, the remains of which include remnants of its foundation and the courtyard fountain, was a favorite residence of Louis IX and the birthplace of Charles V.
With additions and improvements made by successive rulers, the manor grounds became a fortified ‘city’ that provided shelter and protection for several thousand inhabitants during times of upheaval. The old medieval walls and more recent extensions encircle the entire complex. Buildings within the fortifications include the donjon, the royal pavilions, and the holy chapel.
The Donjon (Castle Keep)
Construction of the donjon, or castle keep, began in 1361 during the reign of Jean II and was completed during the reign of his son Charles V. The tall, square structure with corner towers and turrets stands just over 170 feet, making Château de Vincennes one of the tallest fortresses of its kind in Europe.
Exploring the Keep
Since the château was a fortified residence, a protective wall, a moat, and drawbridges surround the keep. Visitors are allowed to walk along the walls, climb the towers, and wander through various rooms within the castle.
Inside, you’ll see the rooms used as private quarters by the King and his servants, as well as those that served in later years as prison cells. Prisoners held here included notable figures such as:
- Louis II of Bourbon, Prince of Condé: Imprisoned in 1650, he served one year of a three-year sentence.
- Denis Diderot: The writer and philosopher was imprisoned here in 1749.
- Marquis de Sade: Perhaps the most notorious prisoner, he spent five of his 30-year sentence in Vincennes. In his cell, you’ll see a writing desk and copies of a few of his books.
Some decoration remains from when Charles V resided here, though it’s important to note that the interior has been stripped and is in no way equal to the lavishness of Versailles.
Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes
Across from the donjon is the Holy Chapel, or Sainte-Chapelle, founded in 1379 at the request of Charles V. Construction of the chapel took over 150 years and was inaugurated during the reign of Henry II in 1552.
Built in the traditional style of a castle chapel with a single nave and two oratories, Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes is modeled in part after its more famous 13th-century namesake located on the Île de la Cité in central Paris.
The Royal Pavilions
At the far end of the complex, you’ll find the Royal Pavilions. The symmetrically aligned buildings were built in the 17th century and reflect the classical style of architecture.
- The King’s Pavilion (on the right) stands on the site of two earlier structures and is the result of modifications made to a pavilion built at the request of Marie de Medici.
- The Queen’s Pavilion (on the left) was constructed under the direction of King Louis XIV.
Prior to making Versailles his royal residence, it was here in the Royal Pavilions that the King and his court stayed when visiting Vincennes, enjoying ‘great festivities, theatrical performances, and hunting parties’.
Getting There and Ticket Info
- Location: Château de Vincennes is located at 1, Avenue de Paris.
- Transportation: Take Metro Line 1 to Château de Vincennes or RER line A to Vincennes.
- Admission: Adult tickets are €8.50; entry is FREE with the Paris Museum Pass.
- Travel Tip: Walking around the grounds of the château is free. Admission prices apply only for access to the donjon (castle keep) and Sainte-Chapelle.
Consider visiting Château de Vincennes if you have limited funds and/or limited time. At €8.50 for entry, no lines, and only a half-hour metro ride, this might be a good alternative to seeing Versailles, which can take up at least half of your day.
Additional Information
- Château de Vincennes is the largest royal castle in France, covering an area of approximately 6 hectares (14.8 acres).
- The donjon, completed in 1370, is the tallest medieval fortified structure in Europe, standing at 52 meters (171 feet) tall.
- The château served as a royal residence from the 12th to the 18th century, with various kings and queens making improvements and additions over the years.
- During the 17th century, the château was also used as a porcelain manufactory, producing high-quality ceramics for the royal court.
- In the 19th century, the château was used as a military fort and ammunition depot, and it played a significant role in the defense of Paris during the Franco-Prussian War (1870-1871).
- Today, the château is managed by the Centre des Monuments Nationaux, the French government agency responsible for national heritage sites.
Tips for Your Visit
- Allow at least 2-3 hours to explore the château, as there is a lot to see both inside and outside the buildings.
- Audio guides are available in several languages, including English, French, German, Italian, and Spanish.
- The château is partially accessible for visitors with reduced mobility, with ramps and elevators available in some areas. However, due to the historical nature of the buildings, some parts may not be accessible.
- If you’re interested in learning more about the château’s history, consider joining one of the guided tours offered by the staff. These tours provide additional insights and anecdotes that you might not discover on your own.
- Don’t forget to explore the surrounding park and gardens, which offer a pleasant respite from the city and a chance to enjoy some greenery.
The Château Through the Ages
Over the centuries, Château de Vincennes has witnessed many significant events in French history. Here are just a few highlights:
- In the 13th century, Saint Louis (King Louis IX) held the first known Parliament of France at the château, establishing it as a center of power and governance.
- During the Hundred Years’ War (1337-1453), the château served as a stronghold for the French crown and was besieged by the English on several occasions.
- In the 16th century, King Henry II and his wife, Catherine de Medici, commissioned the construction of the Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, which became a masterpiece of French Renaissance architecture.
- During the French Revolution (1789-1799), the château was used as a prison for political opponents, including the famous revolutionary leader Honoré Gabriel Riqueti, comte de Mirabeau.
- In the 20th century, the château was occupied by German forces during World War II and later served as a headquarters for the French Resistance.
Today, Château de Vincennes stands as a testament to the rich and complex history of France, offering visitors a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the kings, queens, and other notable figures who have shaped the country over the centuries.
A Unique and Accessible Destination
While it may not be as well-known as some of Paris’s other royal residences, Château de Vincennes is a unique and accessible destination that offers a fascinating look at French history and architecture. With its impressive donjon, stunning Sainte-Chapelle, and beautiful gardens, the château provides a memorable experience for visitors of all ages and interests.
Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply looking for a break from the crowds at more popular attractions, Château de Vincennes is definitely worth a visit. So why not add this hidden gem to your Paris itinerary and discover the magic of this medieval marvel for yourself?