Introducing the Civil War Tour of Oviedo
This Civil War tour in Oviedo offers a compelling look into the tumultuous period from July 1936 to October 1937, when Asturias was one of the fiercest battlegrounds of Spain’s Civil War. Led by the knowledgeable and engaging Denis Soria, an official guide and historian, the tour takes you through the streets of the city, revealing scars of the conflict still visible today. At just around 90 minutes, it’s a compact but impactful journey into recent history, perfect for travelers eager to understand the city’s past beyond the usual sightseeing.
What I particularly appreciate about this experience are two things: first, the way it combines storytelling with tangible remnants of the war. Seeing shells still embedded in facades and the mutilated tower of Oviedo’s cathedral brings history right into the present. Second, the depth of context provided about the political conspiracy and the consequences of repression—something often missing from typical city tours—adds layers of understanding.
One possible consideration is the tour’s focus on Spanish-language narration—it’s not suitable for non-Spanish speakers unless you bring your own translation. Also, transportation and entrance fees are not included, so plan accordingly if you wish to visit other sites or need to get around independently. Still, for history lovers or those curious about Asturias’ gritty past, this tour offers genuine insight without the fluff.
Key Points and Takeaways

- Authentic scars of war: The tour highlights physical remnants like shells embedded in buildings, offering a visceral connection to the battles.
- Expert guidance: Denis Soria’s background as a historian ensures a detailed and accurate portrayal of Oviedo’s Civil War history.
- Historical context: The tour covers key moments like the conspiracy of Colonel Aranda, the initial battles, and the fall of the Northern Front, giving a narrative arc to the city’s wartime experience.
- Emotional impact: Visiting sites like the tower of the Cathedral, now scarred by cannon fire, helps understand the human toll—victims like Leopoldo Alas are remembered here.
- Local perspective: Led by a guide from SER ASTURIANU, the tour offers an authentic local viewpoint that you won’t find in generic guidebooks.
- Duration and logistics: At 1.5 hours, it’s a short, manageable tour—just check availability for precise starting times, as groups are usually small for more personalized storytelling.
Exploring Oviedo’s Civil War History in Depth

When I think of Oviedo, I usually imagine its medieval old town and the stunning cathedral, but this tour reveals a much darker chapter. It’s a reminder that even the most beautiful cities carry scars from their recent past. The tour begins in front of the Reconquista Hotel, a centrally located landmark, which makes it easy to find and join. From the start, Denis Soria sets a brisk, engaging pace, ensuring you see the key sites and understand their significance.
The conspiracy of Colonel Aranda is a starting point that sets the scene for understanding the military and political tensions of the time. Listening to Denis explain how the initial uprising was planned helps clarify how the Civil War’s outbreak was so chaotic and destructive. You won’t just see ruins but learn why those ruins matter.
Next, you’ll walk past sites of early battles, like the assault on the civil government headquarters and the Santa Clara barracks. These places are not just historical addresses but are filled with stories of courage, fear, and chaos. Denis’s detailed narration makes these moments palpable—something I loved, especially after hearing about the markings of shells still embedded in facades, which are silent witnesses to those bloody days.
The Northern Front’s siege and the role of figures like Lieutenant Colonel Teijeiro add a local hero dimension that enriches the experience. You’ll get a sense of how the city’s resilience was tested, and how the scars left by bombings are still visible. The fact that only about thirty buildings remained intact after 15 months of war is staggering and emphasizes just how devastating this conflict was for Oviedo.
The tour’s climax at the Cathedral’s tower, scarred by cannon fire, is a moving moment. Here, Denis discusses the tragic toll on civilians, including notable figures like Leopoldo Alas, whose death symbolizes the repression and suffering inflicted during and after the war. This part of the tour humanizes the history, transforming it from distant dates into stories of real people.
You can also read our reviews of more tours and experiences in Oviedo.
Who Will Get the Most Out of This Tour?

This tour is best suited for travelers who are curious about Spain’s 20th-century history, especially those interested in the Civil War’s impact on local communities. It’s ideal if you enjoy guided storytelling that combines visual evidence (like shell scars) with expert explanations. Because the guide, Denis Soria, is a professional historian, expect a factual, balanced account—perfect for those who value authenticity over sensationalism.
It’s also a good fit for those staying in Oviedo for a few days and looking for an authentic, educational experience that ties the city’s past to its present. Keep in mind, the language is solely Spanish—so non-Spanish speakers might want a guide or translation app. The 1.5-hour duration makes it manageable for most schedules, but be prepared for some walking and standing.
Price and Logistics

While the tour’s price does not include transportation or entrance fees, the value lies in the expert commentary and the rare opportunity to see and touch history—literally, with shells still embedded in walls. Given the intimate group sizes and the depth of knowledge provided, it’s a well-priced experience for those seriously interested in local history.
The flexible cancellation policy—up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund—adds peace of mind. You simply book now, pay later, and decide later if it fits your plans.
Summary: Is the Civil War Tour of Oviedo Worth It?
In brief, this tour offers a rare window into Oviedo’s scars from the Civil War, told by a knowledgeable guide who makes history come alive. It’s a deep, honest look at a pivotal chapter of Spain’s past, with tangible remnants and emotional stories. If you’re interested in history, especially the less-glamorous, more human side of conflict, you’ll find this experience compelling. The tour is accessible, well-structured, and offers a meaningful perspective that complements any visit to Oviedo.
On the other hand, if you’re a non-Spanish speaker or prefer more visual or interactive experiences, you might find this tour a bit limited. Still, for those keen to understand the city’s recent history beyond the surface, it’s a genuine treasure.
In the end, this tour is about remembering the past to better appreciate the resilient spirit of Oviedo today. It’s a respectful, insightful, and sometimes sobering experience that every curious traveler should consider when exploring Spain’s northern heartland.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is this tour suitable for children or families?
The tour is generally not recommended for babies under 1 year or people over 95. It’s more focused on historical storytelling, so younger children might not engage fully or could find it long or intense.
Do I need to speak Spanish to enjoy the tour?
Yes, the tour is conducted entirely in Spanish, so unless you have a translation tool or a Spanish speaker with you, some nuances might be missed. The guide, Denis Soria, is a native and an expert, which enriches the experience for Spanish speakers.
How long does the tour last?
The tour is about 1.5 hours long, making it an easy addition to a day of sightseeing in Oviedo. It’s designed to be manageable and informative without feeling rushed.
Are entrance fees or transportation included?
No, these are not included. You’ll need to plan for any additional visits or travel around the city separately. The focus is on walking through the streets and seeing the scars of war firsthand.
Is there a group size limit?
While not explicitly stated, small groups are typical for these guided tours, which allows for more personalized storytelling and interaction with Denis Soria.
How do I book the tour?
Reservations are through the provider SER ASTURIANU, and you can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. It’s easy to reserve online, and you can book now and pay later if that suits your travel plans.
The Civil War Tour of Oviedo offers a respectful, detailed, and authentic look into a difficult but crucial chapter of local history. For travelers with an interest in Spain’s recent past, it’s a highly worthwhile experience that adds depth and context to your visit.
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