Deventer, a remarkable city in the Netherlands, is home to beautiful medieval architecture and a towering Gothic cathedral on a hill. The city’s earliest settlement dates back to the Bronze Age, giving the area an extensive and fascinating history.
Deventer has been a bustling port city, an important part of Charlemagne’s empirical plans for Europe, and a member of the powerful Hanseatic League. Its strategic location on the Ijssel River helped make Deventer an important trade city throughout much of the Middle Ages and, more recently, a major industrial city in the Netherlands.
Exploring Deventer
Deventer is an inviting place with plenty to see and do, including several major fairs and festivals. The city’s highlight during the holiday season is the Dickens Festijn, a tribute to British writer Charles Dickens, held a few weeks before Christmas in the historic Bergkwartier neighborhood.
Dickens Festijn: A Victorian Christmas
For two days, Deventer’s medieval Bergkwartier is transformed into a 19th-century English town, celebrating a Dickensian Christmas. As you walk through the narrow streets, you’ll encounter local characters going about their daily routines, greeting passersby, selling their wares, and visiting with friends. You might catch a glimpse of ‘Queen Victoria’, ‘Prince Albert’, and guests having tea, or receive a greeting from Samuel Pickwick, Esquire, outside of the Pickwick Club. Chimney sweeps linger on the rooftops, orphan children and scamps make their way through the shoppers, and carolers sing songs of the season, creating a truly immersive experience.
Festive Food and Drink
The lively street merchants offer visitors a variety of food and drink, including:
- Roasted chestnuts
- Whole grain breads
- Organic cider
- Sizzling sausage with kraut
- Mulled wine, sold from sidewalk carts
The mulled wine, enticingly fragrant and perfect for warming up on a cold Deventer day, is a must-try.
Victorian-era Entertainment
As you explore the festival, you’ll encounter ever-changing scenes that bring the pages of Dickens’ classic tales to life. Around each corner, you might spot:
- Exuberant ‘velocipedists’ riding on amazing penny-farthings
- An extraordinary steam-powered tractor from ‘Wallis & Steevens of Basingstoke, Hampshire, England, makers of agricultural equipment, traction engines, and steam and diesel road rollers’
- Minstrels and street singers sharing merriment and cheer
- Young ladies inviting passersby to share a kiss under the mistletoe
Bergkerk: The Mountain Church
The Bergkerk, also known as St Nicholaskerk, is an imposing 12th-century Basilica that sits atop a dune along the Ijssel River, overlooking Deventer’s Bergkwartier. Today, the church is used as a concert hall.
During the Dickens Festijn, in celebration of the 200th anniversary of the writer’s birth, the Bergkerk housed an exhibition of handcrafted miniatures and provided a stage for holiday carolers. Visitors were allowed to view the display of miniature dollhouses and street scenes (about 30 in total) from various Dickens works while enjoying music of the season.
Tips for Attending the Dickens Festijn
- Be prepared for a wait to enter the festival area, which can take up to 2 hours during peak times. Drinks (hot wine, hot cocoa, coffee, and water) and restrooms are available along the way.
- Take the opportunity to people-watch as ‘locals’ make their midday stroll and greet visitors standing in the queue.
- While the Dickens Festijn alone might not warrant planning a trip to Deventer, it’s worth attending if you’re already in the area.
- Allow time to explore more of Deventer beyond the Bergkwartier, as one afternoon is not enough to fully appreciate this attractive city.
Getting to Deventer
Deventer is easily accessible by train, with a journey time of around 2 hours from major Dutch cities like Amsterdam and Rotterdam. The city’s railway station is located just a short walk from the historic center and the Bergkwartier.
Other Attractions in Deventer
Along With the Dickens Festijn, Deventer offers a range of attractions for visitors to enjoy, including:
- The Waag (Weighing House), a beautiful 16th-century building that now serves as a museum showcasing the city’s history and art.
- The Brink, a large central square surrounded by historic buildings, cafes, and restaurants.
- The Lebuinuskerk, a Gothic church dating back to the 15th century, known for its impressive organ and stunning interior.
- The Speelgoedmuseum (Toy Museum), which houses a vast collection of toys from around the world, spanning several centuries.
As you explore Deventer, take the time to wander through its charming streets, admire the medieval architecture, and soak up the city’s unique atmosphere. Whether you’re visiting during the Dickens Festijn or at any other time of the year, Deventer is sure to captivate you with its blend of history, culture, and charm.
“The pain of parting is nothing to the joy of meeting again.” ~ Charles Dickens (Nicholas Nickleby)
What’s your favorite Dickens classic?
