If you’re looking for a unique and intriguing site in Nice, step away from the bustling Promenade des Anglais and venture northwest of the city, past the charming Old Town and the train station. Here, you’ll find the Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas à Nice, a colorful onion-domed church nestled in beautiful gardens. This church has a fascinating story that sets it apart from other religious sites in the area.
The Tragic Tale of Tsarevich Nicolas Alexandrovich
The Russian Imperial family, the Romanovs, had a special connection to Nice. They often spent their winters in the city, renting the Villa Bermond. It was here that tragedy struck in 1865, when Tsarevich Nicolas Alexandrovich, the son of Czar Alexander II and heir to Imperial Russia, passed away on April 24th.
As Thomas W. Knox wrote in Scribner’s Monthly Magazine in 1871:
“With the soft breezes of the Mediterranean fanning his cheek, and wafting through his open window the odors of the vine and the olive, he breathed his last.”
A Father’s Grief and a Memorial Chapel
Czar Alexander II was so devastated by his son’s death that he purchased the Villa Bermond to create a memorial in his honor. According to local legend, La Chapelle du Tsarévitch was built in 1868, on the exact spot where Nicolas’ room once stood within the villa.
This chapel was an addition to the existing Russian L’Eglise Saint-Nicolas et Sainte-Alexandra, located on Rue Longchamp.
The Birth of a New Cathedral
As the Russian Orthodox community in Nice grew, the need for a larger place of worship became apparent. In 1896, construction began on a new church, right next to the Chapel of the Tsarevich, on the grounds of the former Villa Bermond.
This project received support from two important figures:
- Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna, the former fiancé of Tsarevich Nicolas and widow of his brother, Emperor Alexander III
- Czar Nicolas II, the reigning Emperor of Russia at the time
In fact, when funds for the construction ran low, Czar Nicolas II reportedly contributed 700,000 francs from his personal accounts to ensure the church’s completion.
A Sight to Behold
Today, the Cathédrale Saint-Nicolas à Nice stands proudly on rue Avenue Nicolas II. Its ornate and colorful exterior is a sight to behold, and the intricate icons that cover nearly every inch of the interior are truly impressive.
While the cathedral is located outside of the Old Town, it’s well worth the 15-minute walk from the train station. If you’re coming from the Old Town, consider taking a bus to save your feet. Fares are reasonable, around €1 for a one-way trip or €4 for a day pass.
Tips for Your Visit
- Remember that cameras are not allowed inside the cathedral, so be prepared to soak in the beauty with your eyes alone
- Take some time to stroll through the lovely gardens surrounding the church
- If you’re interested in learning more about the Romanovs and their connection to Nice, consider visiting the nearby Musée des Palais impériaux de Russie, which showcases artifacts and exhibits related to the Imperial family
