If you’ve wrapped up your visit to Pisa’s famed Square of Miracles and are heading to the Arno River for a leisurely stroll, consider making a quick detour to the Piazza dei Cavalieri, or Knight’s Square. This historic neighborhood square is well worth a look.
From Roman Forum to Knight’s Square
The Piazza dei Cavalieri is believed to have been the site of Pisa’s ancient Roman Forum. For a time, it was known as Piazza delle Sette Vie, or “Square of the Seven Streets,” due to the numerous roads that crisscrossed the area. The square served as the city’s political, administrative, and educational heart for centuries.
In the 16th century, Cosimo I de’ Medici gave the square a makeover and handed most of the buildings over to the Knights of the Order of Saint Stephen. Keep an eye out for the Knights’ symbol, a red Amalfi Cross (also known as a Maltese Cross), adorning the facades of several buildings.
A Quick Tour of the Square
The Piazza dei Cavalieri is actually more of a triangle shape. To start your quick clockwise tour of the square, find the clock tower with the arched passage running through it. Here’s what you’ll see:
Palazzo dell’Orologio (Clock Palace)
This clock tower consists of two medieval towers joined by a vaulted passageway in the 17th century. The tower on the left, formerly known as Palazzotto della Giustizia or Palazzo del Capitano, was once the seat of Pisa’s magistrates. The tower on the right, Torre dei Gualandi, is sometimes called Torre della Fame or “Tower of Hunger.” The name comes from the tragic story of Count Ugolino della Gherardesca and his family, who were imprisoned in the tower in the 13th century and left to starve to death. The Italian poet Dante Alighieri recounts this grim tale in his “Divine Comedy” (Inferno, Canto XXXIII).
Today, the Clock Palace houses the Library of the Scuola Normale Superiore. Look for the faded frescoes, small 17th-century bell tower, and four neo-medieval lancet windows (added in the early 20th century) on the facade.
Palazzo della Carovana
This stunning “Palace of the Caravan,” formerly known as Palazzo degli Anziani or “Palace of the Elders,” initially served as a school for the Knights of the Order of St. Stephen. In the 1560s, it was renovated by Giorgio Vasari (of Vasari Corridor fame in Florence). Since 1846, it has been the seat of the Scuola Normale Superiore, an elite school of science and humanities founded by Napoleon and modeled after the École Normale Supérieure in Paris. The palace’s ornate façade features 16th to 18th-century reliefs of the Medici dukes.
La Chiesa di San Stefano dei Cavalieri (Church of St. Stephen of the Knights)
This 16th-century church, dedicated to the Knights of Saint Stephen, was commissioned by Cosimo I and designed by Vasari. It was built on the site of the much older Church of San Sebastiano alle Fabbriche Maggiori, named for the blacksmith shops that once populated the area. Inside, you’ll find gilded wooden ceilings and war spoils confiscated by the Knights, including 16th and 17th-century Turkish flags, banners, and ship lanterns.
Palazzo della Canonica
Built in the mid-16th century, this “Palace of the Rectory” served as a residence for the Chaplain-Knights, the Prior of the neighboring Church of the Knights of Saint Stephen, and high-ranking church prelates. Today, the building houses city engineering offices and the Centre for the Research, Planning and Management of Cultural Heritage of the Scuola Normale Superiore.
Palazzo del Consiglio dei Dodici (Palace of the Council of Twelve)
In the Middle Ages, this building was known as the Palace of the Archives and of the Chancellory, and later, the Palace of the Priory. Its current name refers to the “Council of the Twelve,” a ruling body of the Knights of Saint Stephen.
Palazzo Puteano
Also known as Collegio Puteano, this is reportedly the only building in the square not used by the knights. Instead, it served as a residence for students of the University of Pisa. It’s one of three adjoining buildings collectively referred to as San Rocco. Look for the remnants of 17th-century frescoes decorating the upper portion of the facade, attributed to artist Michelangelo Cinganelli (not to be confused with the more famous Michelangelo). Today, Palazzo Puteano is used as temporary housing for university visitors and also serves as the Centro di Ricerco Matematica, a multi-institutional initiative dedicated to mathematics, research, and science.
La Chiesa di San Rocco (Church of Saint Roch)
This corner building adjoining Palazzo Puteano served as the cathedral church of the Order of Saint Stephen and was administered for a time by the Company of San Rocco. The current church is a 16th/17th-century reconstruction of a much older church on this site, originally dedicated to Saint Peter. Inside, you’ll find several works of religious art, including a Medieval wood carving modeled after the Volto Santo di Lucca.
Statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici
Standing in front of Palazzo della Carovana is a 16th-century statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. The statue was commissioned by Grand Duke Ferdinando I and created by sculptor Pietro Francavilla.
Getting to Piazza dei Cavalieri
You’ll find Piazza dei Cavalieri halfway between the Arno River and the Square of Miracles. It’s an easy walk from either location, and well worth the detour for a glimpse into Pisa’s fascinating medieval and Renaissance past.
So after you’ve snapped your quintessential Leaning Tower photo, take a bit of extra time to explore this lesser-known but equally intriguing corner of Pisa. You’ll be rewarded with stunning architecture, intriguing history, and a break from the crowds.
