Exploring Hidden Gems and Authentic Flavors: A Review of the Montpellier: Celles, Capitelles & Local Wine Tasting Tour
This tour offers a unique blend of history, nature, and wine — all within a single day. Starting from Montpellier, it takes you on a journey through the abandoned village of Celles, the striking red earth canyon of Ruffes, charming dry stone huts called capitelles, and finally culminates in a visit to a family-owned winery in Terrasse du Larzac. The experience is designed for those who love authentic encounters, scenic landscapes, and excellent local wines.
Two things I particularly appreciated about this experience are the personal touch of traveling with a native guide, who shared local stories and insights, and the chance to explore varied landscapes that feel like a mini adventure — from ghost villages to Colorado-like canyons. The wine tasting at a family estate adds a delicious, flavorful dimension that helps put the whole day into perspective.
A potential consideration is that the tour involves some physical activity — especially the hike through the canyon — so it’s not ideal if you prefer a very relaxed, sit-back kind of day. Also, remember that no lunch is included, so bringing your own picnic is an absolute must if you’re hungry. But overall, the combination of scenic beauty, cultural discovery, and wine makes this a well-rounded day out for curious travelers.
Key Points and Takeaways

- Stunning Landscapes: Experience canyon-like formations, red earth dunes, and the ghostly beauty of Celles.
- Authentic Villages: Wander through the dry stone capitelles and learn about traditional local craftsmanship.
- Local Guides: The tour is led by a native who provides rich context and stories about the region.
- Wine Tasting: Visit a family estate in Terrasse du Larzac, a renowned wine appellation, and taste complex, aromatic PDO wines.
- Active Adventure: The hike through the canyon includes scenic stops and the winter waterfall, appealing to those who enjoy being outdoors.
- Flexible & Well-Organized: Includes transport by air-conditioned minibus, with pick-up from Montpellier, and small group sizes ensure a personal touch.
Entering the Village of Celles: A Ghost Town Reborn

The day kicks off with a pick-up from the Tram stop ‘Mosson’ in Montpellier, where a comfortable minibus whisks you off into the countryside. Your first stop is the village of Celles — a fascinating site with a story that feels almost cinematic. Abandoned in the 1960s due to plans to flood it for the Salagou lake, Celles remained uninhabited for decades. Some reviews refer to it as a “ghost village,” but recent efforts have revitalized it, offering visitors a glimpse of its past amidst stunning lake views.
What makes Celles captivating is not just the ruins but the sense of history — how nature has reclaimed parts of the village, and how its proximity to the lake offers a peaceful, almost mystical setting. I loved the way the guide, whose name I believe was Jean-Louis, shared stories about the village’s abandonment and the efforts to preserve its charm.
For visitors, walking through Celles feels like stepping back in time. The ruins are atmospheric, especially if you enjoy exploring old buildings and imagining life there decades ago. The waters of the lake, which stopped just short of covering the village, add a serene backdrop that makes the setting even more compelling.
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A Scenic Hike Through the Ruffes Canyon

Next, your adventure takes you into the “Colorado of Occitanie” — the red earth dunes and canyons near Montpellier. This area, known as the canyon des ruffes, is a visual feast. The landscape, with its bold hues and dramatic formations, surprises many travelers who expect this kind of scenery only in far-flung places.
The hike lasts about 2 hours and 45 minutes, and I found it to be a perfect balance of activity and awe-inspiring scenery. As you wander along the trail, you’ll see the stark contrast of red earth dunes, dry stream beds, and the occasional small river, which often transforms into a waterfall during winter. The frozen winter waterfall, reaching about 30 meters, is a highlight if you visit in the colder months.
What I appreciated most was the chance to connect with nature in such a pristine setting, far from crowds and city noise. The guide was informative, pointing out geological features and sharing local legends. The walk is manageable for anyone with a moderate fitness level, and sturdy shoes are essential.
Be prepared for changing weather — it can be quite bright and sunny, so bring water and sun protection. The peacefulness of this region, combined with its Colorado-like vistas, makes it a memorable part of the day.
Discovering the Capitelles: Dry Stone Craftsmanship

As you exit the canyon, you’ll encounter the capitelles — charming dry stone huts built without mortar. These small structures, often set along the trails, were traditionally used by farmers as shelters or storage. Walking past these tiny, expertly crafted huts is like seeing a piece of living history.
The craftsmanship involved in building capitelles is impressive, and I found it fascinating how these structures have endured for generations. The guide explained that building them requires skill and patience, with each stone carefully placed to withstand weather for decades.
Strolling through this part of the tour offers a gentle reminder of local ingenuity and resilience. Plus, the picturesque setting — with the rugged landscape and the occasional capitelle — makes for excellent photo opportunities.
Tasting the Fruits of the Land at Terrasse du Larzac
The final highlight is the visit to a family-owned estate in Terrasse du Larzac, a rising star in the wine world. Here, you get the chance to see the vineyards, learn about the specific terroir, and meet the winemakers, who are eager to share their passion.
The PDO wines from this region are known for their complexity and aromatic profile. The tasting session, which lasts around 1.5 hours, is a delicious way to engage with the local culture. The wines are described as having a notable balance of fruit and earthiness, making them a delightful accompaniment to your understanding of the landscape.
The estate’s setting is beautiful, and the personal attention from the winemakers makes this stop stand out. I loved the opportunity to ask questions and hear stories about how they’ve cultivated these vineyards over generations.
Practicalities and Logistics: Making the Most of Your Day

Transportation is smooth and included in the price, with pick-up points in Montpellier, making it easy to join without stress. The small group size (limited to 8 participants) promotes a more intimate experience, allowing for personal interactions and flexibility in exploring each stop.
The tour duration is approximately 8 hours, which means a full, satisfying day without feeling rushed. Since lunch isn’t included, packing a picnic is recommended — think simple sandwiches or snacks to enjoy during your outdoor breaks. The guide also mentions you should wear comfortable shoes and clothes suitable for walking and outdoor weather.
Pricing reflects the value of the experience — you’re paying for transportation, a guided hike, and a wine tasting that features a family estate, not just a bus ride. If you’re curious about regional wines and landscapes, this tour offers a well-rounded perspective at a reasonable price.
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Who Would Enjoy This Tour Most?
This experience is perfect for travelers who love outdoor adventures, authentic villages, and good wine. If you’re comfortable walking moderate distances and are eager to see a side of Occitanie that’s off the beaten path, you’ll find this tour rewarding. It’s also a great choice for those interested in local craftsmanship and regional gastronomy.
Keep in mind, if you’re looking for a very relaxed, sit-back day or have mobility issues, this might not be ideal due to the hikes and outdoor elements. Also, bring your own picnic if you want a proper meal in nature.
Final Thoughts
This tour offers a rich tapestry of sights and tastes for curious travelers. The combination of exploring a ghost village, hiking through striking red earth landscapes, and sampling complex local wines makes for a memorable day that truly showcases the best of Occitanie.
The genuine local stories, the scenic beauty, and the chance to taste wines from a family estate give this experience exceptional value. It’s an adventure that balances outdoor activity, cultural discovery, and culinary delight — perfect for those who want a well-rounded, authentic taste of southern France.
FAQ
Is transportation included?
Yes, the tour includes air-conditioned minibus transfers between Montpellier and all the stops.
Do I need to bring my own lunch?
Yes, no lunch is provided, so packing a picnic is recommended for enjoying in the outdoor settings.
What should I wear?
Comfortable shoes and clothes suitable for walking and outdoor weather are essential, as the day involves hiking and exploring.
How long is the hike?
The guided hike lasts around 2 hours and 45 minutes, covering the canyon des ruffes and surrounding landscapes.
Can children join this tour?
While the tour is suitable for many, it’s best for those with a moderate level of fitness; very young children may find the hike challenging.
Is it suitable for people with mobility issues?
The outdoor nature of the tour and walking involved might not be suitable for those with limited mobility.
In summary, if you’re looking for a day filled with scenic wonders, authentic regional culture, and some of the best local wines, this tour from Montpellier delivers. It’s a well-organized, genuine experience that balances active exploration with culture — making it a genuinely worthwhile addition to your southern France itinerary.
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