Built on Coudenberg Hill, in the heart of Brussels, the 13th century fortified castle-turned-palace of Brussels was the grand residence of the Dukes of Brabant, the Dukes of Burgundy, and most notably that of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. Said to have been one of the most beautiful royal residences in Europe, Coudenberg contained rooms lavishly decorated with embroideries, tapestries, objects made of precious metals, chinaware, sculpted statues, and paintings by masters such as Brueghel, Rubens, and Titian.
None of that remains, however, since the palace, damaged by fire in the early-18th century and subsequently abandoned by the Royal court, was demolished in the 1770s to make way for construction of the Place Royale, the main square. And, today, the ruins that you’ll visit lie beneath a portion of the square and a few of the neoclassical buildings surrounding it. One of these buildings, home to the BELvue Museum of Belgian history, serves as the entrance to the underground ruins and archaeological site.
You’ll enter through an automatic door behind which you’ll find the cellars of the main building. Likely used as a storage area, these cellars are just below the former site of the Prince’s apartments and audience chamber, and the present day Rue Royale.
Here’s where you’ll see some of the oldest structural features of the palace, such as the latrine cesspool,
12th century walls and alcoves, and the bays which led to the former gardens.
You’ll also see the remnants of a staircase that led to the palace’s inner courtyard.
Continue on down the arched pathway and into the basement of the 16th-century ducal Chapel.
Built during the reign of Charles V as a replacement to an earlier chapel from the Middle Ages, this area (used as cellars and kitchens) contains a series of massive octagonal columns that provided support to the columns inside of the chapel.
As you wander through the various chambers you’ll see other architectural features, some of which – like the 20th century spiral stairs – attest to more recent use of the cellars.
Exiting the Chapel you’ll find yourself on Rue Isabel, presently a sloping covered passage named in honor of Archduchess Isabel of Austria, daughter of Philip II of Spain. Known in the Middle Ages as Ingelandstraat, this little passage was once an open-air road extending from the Palace to the Church of Saint Michael and Gudula.
Using the informational placards and number markers as a guide, make your way to the cellars below the former Aula Magna;
you’ll have to climb the steps to your left midway down the passage. Built in the mid-15th century at the request of Philip the Good, Duke of Brabant and Burgundy, this ‘Great Hall’ stood in what is now the Place Royal and served as a state banqueting hall where major events of the Brussels Court were held. Such events include the Abdication of Charles V in 1555 and, a decade later, the wedding feast of Alexander Farnese (the future Duke of Parma and Governor of the Spanish Netherlands) and his wife Mary of Portugal.
Ruins visible in these cellars include the main kitchen chimney, collapsed floor of the banqueting hall,
a keystone (once a center stone of the vaulted ceiling) emblazoned with the emblem of Philip the Good, and a staircase that led to the inner courtyard and central tower.
Back on Rue Isabel, backtrack toward the chapel (passing a wonderful scale model of the palace).
At the far end of the passage, take the stairs on the left.
You’re now entering the courtyard and gardens of Hoogstraeten House,
former residence of the noble Lalaing family, advisors to the Dukes of Burgundy. Once one of several private mansions that surrounded the palace, the property now houses governmental offices, tourist info, and a small museum dedicated to artifacts uncovered in the Coudenberg archaeological site.
These include: 16th-17th century glazed ceramic stove tiles,
redware pottery, a lead-glazed tripod cooking pot,
16th century prunted and Berkemeier glassware, 15th century double cone bottles, round and pear shaped vials, a 15th century copper chamber pot, and 16th century iron objects including a ‘great bascinet’ helmet and visor, and a breastplate. The Hoogstraeten House – Museum also hosts temporary exhibits.
Getting There:
Entrance to the Coudenberg Palace Ruins is via the BELvue Museum at Place des Palais 7, and you will exit onto Rue Villa Hermosa. To give you a reference of how far the ruins extend, you’ll be walking under Rue Royale, BIP (Brussels Information Point), and Place Royale.
Ticket Info:
Adult Admission = 6.00€; + BELvue Museum = 10.00€
Young Adult Admission (ages 18 – 25) = 4.00€; + BELvue Museum = 7.00€
Child Admission (ages 17 and younger) = FREE
English Audio guide = 2.50€
FREE with the Brussels Card
Travel tip:
To enter Coudenberg ruins, you’ll need the token you’re given when you purchase/validate your ticket.
Keep in mind that, at the end of your tour, you’ll exit onto Rue Villa Hermosa at the opposite end of the site.
Summary
Reviewer
Mike Young
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Reviewed Item
Coudenberg Underground Palace Ruins
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